Hey remember that trip I took to Europe at the end of September that now seems like eons ago? And remember how I was kind-of-sort-of writing about it? Yeah, me neither.
But, my archives tell me that I did. And there are pictures I’ve been meaning to share with you. And since I have nothing else on my mind except this dag-gone election, I need a distraction. Humor me.
So after Malta, we boarded the ship, changed into our swim suits, and basked in the warm sun until dinner time. Some time around 10 p.m. we went out on the deck and noticed glimmering lights off the coast of what we could only assume was Sicily. Then we noticed lights on the other side. We were sailing directly into the straight that separates Sicily from the tip of the boot of Italy. One of the coolest moments of the trip was when we passed through with Sicily on one side and Italy on the other – our first glimpses of Italy. Because it was dark, I don’t really have any pictures to show you, but believe me, it was quite beautiful.
The next morning, we docked in the Port of Naples. Figuring we had outsmarted the cruise ship tours by keeping our money in our pockets and taking advantage of the local tours on the double-decker buses, we decided this would be our plan for nearly every stop from now on. So we got off the ship, looked around for a double-decker bus, and…we were completely lost. There were a bunch of Italian cab drivers wanting to charge us 100 Euro to go to Pompeii and back, which wasn’t a very good deal in our minds, but no bus so we took off walking. No map, no translators, just two stupid Americans in Naples, one of the most mob-controlled cities in all of Italy. Fantastic.
After panic had set in, I spotted a familiar red bus and we booked it as fast as we could in that general direction. A short time later, we were happily riding around Naples, taking in our first views of Italy.

Castel Nuovo.

And us, with Castel Nuovo.

I like to take pictures of random side streets. You know, to capture the essence of the city.

I think this was the outside of the Italian equivalent to a shopping mall.

And this was on the inside.
Our tour took us to the outskirts of Naples for some gorgeous coastal views.

Like this.

And this. That’s Mt. Vesuvius on the right.
Once our bus tours were over (we took two), we decided to try and make the trip out to Pompeii. We were told it was just a 20 minute train ride on the express train, so we needed to hop a bus to the train station and then take the train to Pompeii. Easy enough, right?
Perhaps, for anyone else, but not for us.
We walked to the bus stop, purchased tickets, and got on the next bus. As we arrived to the train station – the last stop on the bus route – the bus-ticket-collector-guy made his rounds. We showed him our tickets and though he didn’t speak one word of English (or refused to) he pointed out that our tickets were not validated. Oopsie. We tried to apologize, and a couple of women on the bus explained to him that we were Americans and didn’t know we were supposed to validate our tickets when we boarded. Still, he made us stay on the bus and after a very frustrating 10 minutes thanks to our language barriers, we realized he was fining us 34 Euros. That’s about $60 US dollars. For a $2 bus ticket. And we paid for both. “Welcome to Italy, here’s your complimentary shakedown.”
This left us feeling pretty bitter, discouraged, and practically robbed, but we tried to make the most of it and pressed on to Pompeii anyway. That asshat was not going to ruin our day, even if he kind of already did. We were going to see Pompeii damnit! We were determined.
We boarded the train, which was much like boarding the New York subway – smells, trash, graffiti, and all – and arrived in Pompeii a short time later. It was getting kind of late in the day, and with barely any cash left on us, we had to use an ATM. Which meant fees, but we had no choice. The ticket counter only took cash. With the bus incident still fresh in our minds, we decided not to pay for a tour through the ruins, or pay extra for one of those self-guided head phone tours. We were trying to make up for lost money, and we were also in a hurry, so we grabbed a map and went on inside. Though we had absolutely no idea what we were looking at (map turned out to be only in Italian), we were stunned by what we saw.

Mt. Vesuvius in the background.

Baths

Bakery

Bodies mummified in ash.
What was truly amazing was the fact that so many of the paintings and wall murals were still in tact. The colors were still vibrant, and for something that was technically buried in ash close to 2,000 years ago (79 A.D. to be exact), I was astonished.

See? The image, though it was from the poorer part of the city, is still in remarkably good condition.
And for those who didn’t pick up on the “action” from the above picture, that was an image I snapped from inside the whore house. I’m dead serious.

I told you I like taking pictures of random city streets. I call this one “Streets of Pompeii.”
After an hour and a half wandering around Pompeii and not even seeing half of it, we made our way back to the train station. The ride back was much longer (45 min. vs 20 min.) because we weren’t on the express train, so we didn’t make it back a little after 6 p.m. We needed to be back on the ship by 6:30 and our map looked as if were weren’t that far, so we just decided to walk. Well, the map lied. We were a good mile and a half to two miles from the ship and without a cab in sight, so we had no choice but to take off running. We ran past an old guy who started laughing at me in my skirt and flats (thank gawd I was wearing flats and not sandals or heels!). I was really starting to hate Naples at this point. As we entered the boardwalk, the crew started clapping like we were marathon runners approaching the finish line. And to be honest, I felt like I had just run a marathon as sweat poured down our faces. We were about 10 minutes late, and just as my second foot step on the boat, they pulled up the plank and closed the gates. Phew, that was a close one!
So Naples? Not my favorite. But Pompeii? Totally worth the headache. If I ever go back, I’m skipping Naples altogether and heading to Sorrento or hopping a ferry to the island of Capri. Some people on our ship did that and had absolutely no problems with bus conductors taking their Euros.
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